Pilgrimage Day 21: León - Villadangos del Páramo

Leon was beautiful yesterday and is even more beautiful in the early morning while I find my way out of the city. It is so quiet, almost no people and cars. Unfortunately it is not so beautiful when I get out of the city and come into the suburbs. Here I have to walk for 2 hours before I finally am in the open again. The suburbs are dirty and very noisy. This was a disappointment on a journey that is otherwise characterized by all that is beautiful. I appreciate even more to see the gravel road when it appeared. It is only when I come to La Virgen del Camino that the city released its grip on the environment. In the middle of the village is a charming little chapel erected in 1505 by an fellow, named Alvar Simóm, who claimed that he had seen the Virgin Mary here.

Now I am faced with a choice. Should I follow the paved road (which is the original pilgrimage route) and that most pilgrims choose? Or should I follow a new path that was built 10 years ago in a long stretch of beautiful forest area? I chose the highway. But regret later because this is not beautiful at all. I go partly parallell and partly on the asphalt road N-120.

It's blazing hot to walk 20 km on asphalt on a sunny day. Just walk and walk. Putting one foot in front of the other as I have done for 3 weeks now. I force myself to lift my head and shift focus, as I have done previously. I must change my attitude to the road. Ok, it's not pretty with asphalt. But the road is more than that. I look at the ruins of an old church. There is only one wall standing. But the funny thing is that storks have laid their nests here. I stop and look at the big storks that live here. I also noticed all the crosses that have been set up along the road and often in the middle of the field.

I arrive at Villadangos del Páramo after 5 hours. Not a village was passed on today's journey  from La Virgen del Camino. A long asphalt road where I had to really work hard with myself to break the monotony of my attitude to the road. There was actually several things that happened today as well. The hostel here in Villadangos del Páramo proved to be very good. The host gives me a glass of wine as a welcome greeting when I arrived. He stamps my pilgrim passport and I pay 3 euros for a room with 4 beds, but I have the room for myself tonight. He says he tries to give older people a room for themselves and let the young people sleep together in the large dormitory. Elderly people? Was he talking about me? I am only 57 years old and not elderly, -I thought. But why not ... Perhaps being an older man has its advantages? I think I like the idea after thinking about it a little bit. Yes, I am becoming older and can enjoy it if I want. A glass of wine for the elderly and a room for myself. Hihi. I make pasta for dinner, eat it outside on the lawn and feel that it's a long time since I have felt so young and vigorous. Maybe it's about time that i let mayself become older, but I still want to be young and vigorous, is there anything wrong with that? I eat my meal together with a Spanish father walking the pilgrimage together with his 10 year old son. They sit down next to me and ask if I have walked far and I see the young boy stare at my beard. They are starting their journey today and the young boy wants to know more about my journey fra Norway and of my walk from France. They ask for advice about their planned journey. It's funny to think about that I am now sitting here in Spain giving advice to others about their pilgrimage. The father says that having walked the pilgrimage is important for Spaniards and something that they include in their Curriculum Vitae, as a sign of endurance and patience. He wants to help his son to get this on his CV. The unemployment for young people is high in Spain and this might be of help for his son later in life, says a proud Spanish father. We sit together a while and talk on the lawn outside the hostel.

Pilgrimsreisen Dag 21: León - Villadangos del Páramo

León var vakker igår og er enda mer vakker i den tidlige morgenstunden mens jeg finner min vei ut av byen. Her er så stille, nesten ikke mennesker og biler så tidlig om morgenen. Dessverre er det ikke så vakkert når jeg kommer ut av byen og kommer inn i forstaden. Her må jeg vandre i 2 timer før jeg endelig er i det fri igjen. Forstaden er skitten og meget støyfull. Det var en liten nedtur på en reise som ellers er preget av alt som er vakkert. Dessto mer setter jeg pris på grusveien igjen når den dukker opp. Det er først når jeg kommer til La Virgen del Camino at byen slipper sitt grep på omgivelsene. Midt i landsbyen er det en yndig liten kapell reist i 1505 av an mannsom het Alvar Simóm som hevdet at han så jomfru Marie her.

Nå står jeg overfor et valg. Skal jeg følge den asfalterte hovedveien (som er den opprinnelsige pilegrimsveien) og som de fleste pilegrimer velger å gå? Eller skal jeg følge en ny sti som ble anlagt for 10 år siden og som slynger seg inn i et langstrakt vakkert skogsområde? Jeg velger hovedveien. Men angrer etterhvert for dette er ikke en vakkert i det hele tatt. Jeg går dels vedsiden av og dels på den asfalterte bilveien N-120.

Det er stekende varmt å gå 20 km på asfalt. Det er bare å gå og gå. Sette den ene foten foran den andre slik jeg har gjort i 3 uker nå. Jeg tvinger meg selv til å løfte hodet å skifte fokus, slik jeg har måttet gjøre tidligere også. Jeg må endre min holdning til veien. Ok, det er ikke vakkert med asfalt. Men dagen er mer enn det. Jeg ser for eksempel resten av en gammel kirke. Det er bare en vegg som står oppreist. Men det morsomme er at storkene har beleiret det som står igjen. Jeg stopper opp og ser på storkene som holder til her. Jeg legger også merke til alle korsene som er satt opp langs veien og ofte midt ute på åkeren.

Jeg ankommer Villadangos del Páramo etter 5 timer. Ikke en landsby ble passert på dagens vandring etter La Virgen del Camino. En lang asfaltvei hvor jeg måtte virkelig jobbe med å bryte min ensformige holdning til veien. Det var faktisk litt å få med seg idag også. Herberget her i Villadangos del Páramo viste seg å være veldig bra. Verten gir meg faktisk et glass rødvin som velkomsthilsen når jeg kom. Han stempler mitt pilegrimspass og jeg betaler 3 euro for et rom med 4 senger, men som jeg er alene i inatt. Han sier han forsøker å gi eldre mennesker enerom og lar de unge sove i den stor sovesalen. Eldre mennesker du liksom. Jeg er bare 57 år gammel og ikke et eldre mennesker, -trodde jeg. Men hvorfor ikke... kanskje det å bli et eldre mennesker har sine fordeler også? Jeg tror jeg likte tanken når jeg fikk tenkt meg om, -jeg begynner å eldes og kan nyte det hvis jeg vil. Jeg lager pasta til middag, spiser den ute på plenen og kjenner at det er lenge siden jeg har følt meg så ung og sprek. Det er på tide at jeg la meg selv bli eldre, men likevel være ung og sprek. Er det så galt å ønske det da? Jeg spiser mitt måltid sammen med en spansk far som går pilegrimsferden sammen med sin 10 år gamle sønn. De starter sin reise i dag og den unge gutten ønsker å vite mer om min reise fra Norge og vendringen jeg har foretatt fra Frankrike. Det er litt rart å tenke på at jeg nå sitter i Spania og gir råd til andre pilgrimer, ja til og med til spanjoler. Hehe. Faren sier at det å ha vandret på pilegrimsferd er noe som man skrever om i ens CV som et tegn på utholdenhet og tålmodighet. Han ønsker å hjelpe sønnen til å få dette på CV'en sin. Arbeidsledigheten for unge mennesker er høy i Spania og dette kan være til hjelp for sønnen hans senere i livet, sier en stolt spansk far. Vi sitter en stund på plenen og snakker sammen,

Pilgrimage Day 20: Reliegos - León

I leave the little village of Reliegos in the early morning hours, and watch the sun rise once more. I am looking forward to this moment every day now. It's so wonderful to be out on the open plains and watch the sun rise like this. It only takes a few minutes for darkness to change to light. The dark sky changes to a beautiful and colorful sky. I see many colors of blue with tinkels of pink and violet and gray. The sky is never only blue. If you look closely you can see all the colors you wish.

The road today will lead me to the city of León. I look forward to see this big city. I have otherwise gone through major cities as quickly as possible. But León, I look forward to visit. It is a city with a long history. But to get there I have to walk 25 km first. I follow a dirt road that no longer runs next to the car road. It's more quiet here and more shade.

I go through many small villages before I come to León. The first village is Mansilla de las Mulas, with its well-preserved city wall which encircles the entire city. There are only 1800 people here now, but was in "the old days" an important city with 7 churches, 2 monasteries, and 3 hospitals. Mansilla means  "hand on the chair", which is also reflected in the coat of arms I can see at the city gate. Mulas means just "cattle" and refers to the great cattle auctions held here. Then I cross the river Esla and come to the village of Villa Marcos, which is so small that it barely gets noticed. I go over the river Porma and come to Puente de Villarente. This village lives apparently of the traffic into León. It is next to the highway N-601. Lots of gas stations is what I see here. Luckily I will not follow the main road to León. I go to the village Arcahueja and on to Vadelafuente. From here I begin to see León in the distance. The next two hours I walk through a industrial area and must follow the main road. Not just follow the main road but I have to walk on it a long distance. It feels a little unsafe with lots of traffic and I have to keep my eyes open at all time.

Inside the city I can not find the yellow arrows anymore. Leon has chosen to replace the yellow painted arrows with scallops of bronze which is enshrined in the sidewalk. Through León all I have to do is simply to follow the scallops. Fantastic.

I see the big bullfighting areaen and think of Ernest Hemmingway who might once have been here to amuse himself with what he thought was something beautiful. I had not gone into this building to see a bullfight if someone had paid me for it. I go instead through León's many beautiful streets. I get so concerned with buildings and architecture that I forget to follow the scallops. I have gone astray and I have no idea where I am in the city. Instead of being filled with anxiety, I am happy. I have totally lost control and do not know where I am in this unknown city. In stead of walking into a store and asking for a map, I decide to continue my uncontrolled sightseeing and see what happens. Here are some pictures from my journey in León.

I was born and raised in large city so cities do not scare me. I understand the streets and how cities are designed. I am really confident that I will eventually walk in a circle and come back to scallops in the sidewalk, and I did. I had two glorious hours of wandering the city streets. León is just beautiful to get lost in. I love León. Tired and exhausted after 25 km of walking to León and then 2 hours of walking in the streets, I found a munincipal driven international hostel, the Albergue de Peregrino. The receptionist here spoke 5 languages ​​fluently and there were flags from every country in the world on the walls. There are beds for 150 pilgrims here, divided into small rooms with bunkbeds for 4 people in each room. 10 large showers. Free use of washing machines and dryers. A big kitchen, TV room and library. For those who needed it, there was also a nursing service in order to care for wounds, etc.. Price? 4 euros! I bought fresh bread, Spanish sausage and cheese with delicious olives for dinner today. It was for me a royal meal together with people of all ages and from different countries around me. We talk around the kitchen table into the late evening with one (or was it two) bottle of wine. Lights out at midnight.

Pilgrimsreisen Dag 20: Reliegos - León

Jeg forlater den lille landsbyen Reliegos i en tidlig morgentime, og ser solen stige opp, igjen. Jeg gleder meg til dette øyeblikket hver dag nå. Det er så fantastisk å være ute på de åpne slettene og se solen stige opp som dette. Det tar bare noen minutter fra mørke til lys. Den mørke himmelen skifter til en vakker og fargerik himmel. Jeg ser mange blåfager med et nyanser av rosa, fiolett, og grått. En blå himmel er aldri bare blå. Ser du godt etter, kan du se alle regnbuens farger på himmelen.

Veien idag skal føre meg til storbyen León. Jeg gleder meg til storbyen denne gangen. Jeg har ellers gått gjennom storbyene så raskt som mulig. Men akkurat León gleder jeg meg til å se. Det er en by med en lang historie. Men for å komme dit må jeg gå 25 km idag. Jeg følger en grusvei som ikke lenger går ved siden av den trafikerte bilveien. Det er mer stille her og mer skygge. Veldig bra å gå her.

Jeg går gjennom mange små landsbyer før jeg kommer til León. Første landsby er Mansilla de las Mulas med sin velbevarte bymur som omkranser hele byen. Det bor bare 1800 mennesker her nå, men var i sin storhetstid en viktig by med 7 kirker, 2 klostre og hele 3 sykehus. Navnet Mansilla betyr "hånden på stolen", som også gjenspeiles i byvåpenet man ser på byporten. Mulas beyr bare "kveg" og viser til de store kveg auksjonene som arrangeres her. Så går jeg videre over elven Esla til landsbyen Villamarcos, som er så liten at den knapt legges merke til. Jeg går over elven Porma og kommer til Puente de Villarente. Denne landsbyen lever tydeligvis av trafikken inn til León. Den ligger rett inntil hovedveien N-601. Massevis av bensinstasjoner er det jeg ser her. Heldigvis skal jeg ikke følge denne hovedveien inn til León. Jeg går heller til landsbyen Arcahueja og videre til Vadelafuente. Herfra begynner jeg å kunne se León. De neste to timene går jeg gjennom et lite sjamerende industriområde og må følge hovedveien N-601 likevel. Ja ikke bare følge hovedveien men i lange strekninger må jeg gå på den. Det kjennes litt utrygt med masse trafikk og jeg må følge godt med.

Inne i byen finner jeg ikke de gule pilene lenger. León har valgt å erstatte de gulmalte pilene med kamskjell av bronse som er nedfelt i fortauet. Gjennom hele Leóen er det bare å følge kamskjellene. Fantastisk.

Jeg ser den store tyrefekteareaen og tenker på Ernest Hemmingway som kanskje satt her en gang og moret seg med det han syntes var vakkert. Jeg hadde ikke gått inn her om noen hadde betalt meg for det. Jeg går heller gjennom Leóns vakre gater, og de er det mange av. Jeg blir så opptatt av bygningsmassen og arkitekturen at jeg glemmer å følge kamskjellene. Jeg har gått meg vill og jeg ikke peiling på hvor jeg er i byen. Istedet for å fylles med angst, blir jeg lykkelig. Jeg har totalt mistet kontroll og vet ikke hvor jeg befinner meg i denen ukjente byen. Istedet for å gå innom en butikk og spørre etter et kart, bestemmer jeg meg for å fortsette min ukontrollerte vandring og ser hva som skjer. Her er noen bilder fra min vanding i León.

Jeg er født og oppvokst i en storby så byer skremmer meg ikke i utgangspunktet. Jeg kjenner gatas språk og hvordan man byer er konstruert. Jeg er egentlig trygg på at jeg før eller siden vil gå i ring og finne tilbake til bronsemuslingene i fortauet og det gjorde jeg. Men det ble to herlige timer med vandring i byens gater. León er bare vakker. Her likte jeg meg virkelig. Trøtt og sliten etter 25 km for å komme til León og så 2 timer med vandring i byens gater, fant jeg et kommunalt drevet internasjonal herberge Albergue de Peregrinos. Resepsjonisten her snakket 5 språk flytende og det var flagg fra alle verdens land på veggene. Her er det plass til hele 150 pilegrimmer fordelt på små rom med plass til 4 personer i hvert rom. Store bad med 10 dusjer og vasker. Gratis bruk av vaskemaskiner og tørketromler. Flott felleskjøkken, tv-rom og bibliotek. For de som trengte det var det også en sykepleietjeneste her for å stelle sår, mm. Pris? 4 euro. Jeg har kjøpt brød, spansk pølse og ost med herlige olivener til middag idag. Det var for meg en kongelig måltid sammen med mennesker i alle aldre og alle land rundt meg. Her pratet vi rundt kjøkkenbordet til seint på kveld med en (eller var det to) flaske med rødvin.

Pilgrimage Day 19: Sahagún - Reliegos

  

It is special to go through the city early in the morning. The sky is still dark and the street lights gives a ghostly yellow lighting to empty streets. The way out of Sahagún leads me over the Puente del Canto, a bridge that was built by Alfonso the 6th already in the year 1085. The sun rises and I get to Calzada del Coto. Here, beautiful trees are planted along the whole trail which breaks the monotony of the flat landscape. But since I am walking westward and the sun is on my back all the time, the trees give no shade for me. They give shade only for each other. Then I come to the village Bercianos. Here I find me a bench, rest up for a while and watch the world go by outside  at the local grocery store. After a few km I come to El Burgo Ranero which is slightly larger than the previous village, but otherwise quite similar. Here I go past a bar with a poster that says "access only for men, women are not allowed". Weird to see such signs in modern times.


The way forward now is a near three-hour walk, straight ahead, until the village Reliegos. There are no major differences in the pictures today because everything was really ge same. Today's hike seem to be the same, hour after hour. The monotony of life makes me feel that I am present at all time -in the same situation. I feel almost like I'm standing still. But is not life so often like this for us all? We get up, eat, go to work, come home, eat, sleep, only to do the same the next day. We continue doing the sane things day after day, week after week, year after year.
I have to focus on other things as I walk. It is my focus that is monotonous, not the landscape. I can feel and see that my beard has grown and that I'm starting to change my appearance. 19 days has changed me a bit. I'm not quite the same as when I started. I have taken off some kilos. I speak with my shadow. I have not done before.
I notice a cross-like sculpture along the trail. It is very large. Below the cross is written that the cross is in memory of those who died under the dictatorship of Francisco Franco. Has the world forgotten this war? When the civil war raged here, the whole world had it's eyes focused on Spain and people came from all over the world to fight against Franco. In addition to all the fallen soldiers, it is said that up to 200 000 people were executed during Franco's dictatorship. I stop my monotonous journey and become filled with humble respect for those who fought and gave their lives to liberate the land I now walk freely on. I pick up a stone from the road and place it next to the hundreds of other stones that are placed at the foot of this memorial. I walk further and meet a farmer who has a flock of sheep behind him. They follow after him as well-behaved children. He does not have a sheepdog that keeps them together. The farmer only walks on in quick steps in front, with all his sheep running quickly behind him. I associate with how this old style of leadership still works not only for a sheepfarmer, but also in both public and private sector. I smile and take a quick picture of the situation.

Then I finally reach the village of Reliegos. I have walked 30 km today on a road that was straight and flat. Monotonous? Yes, but I managed to break the monotony by noticing other things than that which repeats itself all the time. I found out that if life is monotonous, than I have to change my attitude. If I can't change my surrondings, I can at least change my attitude to them. In Reliegos there are not many places to stay. Below is a picture of the entrance to the hostel I stayed at. There is not much to suggest that pilgrims are welcome here. I just noticed drying racks on the outside along the sidewalk and thought that here are my fellow pilgrims. Here I got a bed for the night for 3 euro (together with 10 other sols). After a good shower and a cold beer in the shade, I ate dinner with a young couple from Italy, at a bar nearby. They had a wonderful homemade stew of lamb here with icecream and pickled plums for dessert and with a good bottle of Rioja red wine. All this for a pilgrimage price of only 5 euro. I am stunned by the price. Something must be very wrong with the price level in Norway. I would in Norway gladly have payed 20 euro for this tasty meal and another 30 euro for the lovely wine, 50 euro all together. And here I pay only 5 euro. I enjoy my meal togehter with my new friends from Italy. I'm smiling.