Monday, February 6, 2012
Pilgrimage Day 27: O Cebreiro - Tríacastela
Today's walk is not as long and tiring as yesterday. It is slightly over 20 km to Tríacastela where I've decided to stay. The day begins with a little fog but the sun comes out soon.
The first village is Liñares after only a few km. Here, I meet a giant statue of a pilgrim having a hard time in the wind. I am 1270 meters above sea level and the valley is called San Roque. I notice that the pilgrim is struggling along in sandals.
I follow a broad and fine gravel road and it goes gently downhill. I come to the village of Alto do Poio and then to Fonfría. Then Viduedo. All these villages are small and beautiful to walk through.
Something that is typical of the road I am following is that there is cow dung everywhere. This is because there is are a lot of cows, of course. Milk production in this province is important here and the local cheeses are really good. To meet a long range of cows on the narrow path is something that happened several times today.
Finally I come to a larger village called Triacastela. Many pilgrims choose to go on, but I feel that I need to rest a bit after yesterday's strenuous hiking. I find a privately owned guest house for the night. I get the bottom bunk in a room for six persons. There are threes bedrooms here. I share the room with a family from the Netherlands. The man has walked a pilgrimage all the way from the Netherlands. He has spent two weeks, alone, each summer for the past 10 years on this. Now he has his wife and 15 year old daughter with him on the final stretch. His wife and daughter seems totally exhausted and did not say much. I make myself a soup and eat fresh bread and locally produced cheese. It was a small feast for me.